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Painting boards (with Shaggy's method)

A new section for any "how to" information or photos, as well as any pictures you might take while you're building your boards.

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Postby DallasNate on Thu Jul 20, 2006 4:52 pm

man, I drove myself nuts, and all over town!!!!!
I went to Linens-n-things, they didn't have clear, I went next door to office depot, they said try Lowe's, I went to Lowe's, they said try Target, I went to Target, they said try Michael's, I went to Michael's, and they had something just like it, but not real contact paper, so I hope it works!!!! if it doesn't, I'm gonna order a ton online!!!!!
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Postby mheidenr on Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:14 am

Shaggy, you are the man. Your technique worked fantastic. I'm in the process of making a set of boards for a Corvette lover. I have a red side that wraps around the top of the platform with a 1/4" jet black pin stripe inside of that. A 1/4" isn't a lot of room and paint bleed would be noticable. Using your technique, that pin stripe was crisp as I've ever seen.

Thanks for the heads up.

I'll post some pics when I get the logo on.

Thanks again.

Mark
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Postby DallasNate on Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:56 am

I can't wait to see some pix of that!
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Postby Shaggy on Wed Aug 02, 2006 7:47 am

mheidenr wrote:Shaggy, you are the man. Your technique worked fantastic. I'm in the process of making a set of boards for a Corvette lover. I have a red side that wraps around the top of the platform with a 1/4" jet black pin stripe inside of that. A 1/4" isn't a lot of room and paint bleed would be noticable. Using your technique, that pin stripe was crisp as I've ever seen.

Thanks for the heads up.

I'll post some pics when I get the logo on.

Thanks again.

Mark


That's awesome .... I'm really glad people are finding that technique useful and it's working for everyone. I always struggled with getting crisp tape lines ... my whole life! I just learned of that technique within the past couple years. I'll tell ya, it would have saved me alot of headaches in my past had I known about it. :lol:

You may still occasionally encounter some bleed through, but for the most part it works like a charm. I'm glad I was told of the technique by a painter friend of mine. I'm also glad I could pass it on and save other people from the headaches/heartburn of paint bleed through.
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Postby andygriff1975 on Wed Aug 02, 2006 7:55 am

You're the Undisputed World Champion Cornhole Painter! :D
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Postby C T Riopelle on Sat Aug 05, 2006 12:09 pm

Anyone know if I'll have any problems putting paint on over the runoff from my varnish I used to clearcoat the tops? I did the tops first to get the "important part" finished ASAP, and I am planning on adding paint for some orange and blue color to the skirt. I am going to use the tape technique for a crisp edge, but I have no idea if varnish is suitable for a base under latex. Any experts out there?
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Postby andygriff1975 on Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:15 am

You might try polyacrylic for your first coat using the tapping tech. from above. It is basically paint without color and should work in a similar manner.
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Postby mheidenr on Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:00 am

img3343lh2.jpg
crisp painted lines
img3343lh2.jpg (34.66 KiB) Viewed 956 times

Shaggy, per the previous post. I said I'd post some pics. Here is just an example of the crisp lines I got using your method. Thanks for the awesome tip! I use it all the time now.

See the rest of the pics in the Gallery under open-sided boards "Corvette Lover". The finished product is there.

Thanks again.

Mark

photo URL - http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2376/img3343lh2.jpg
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Me Too !

Postby j_spar on Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:12 am

I have also had good Luck with Shaggy's method. Thanks !

I have a few questions though.

In anyone's experience.....


    What is the proper drying time of the deck paint ( Base Coat )before applying the logo masking onto the deck ?
    What is the proper drying time before you peel the masking off ?
    If doing a multi colored mask for a logo, Whats the proper drying time between color masks ?



Thanks !

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Postby mheidenr on Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:24 am

Good questions. I have found that the longer you leave the tape on the LESS sharp the edges will be. While I can't give you actual drying times I can say that after I tape I paint a thin base coat and when it's dry to the touch I apply my first color coat. Dry to tack and apply second and final color coat. (Don't keep brushing over it or you risk lifting the first color coat since it didn't dry.) Then when my second color coat is on I wait 5 minutes to allow the brush strokes to smooth out and then I pull the tape.

If the paint dries completely then remove tape slowly and if it starts to pull paint, then score the tape / paint edge with a razor to free the tape.
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Postby andygriff1975 on Mon Sep 25, 2006 4:54 am

Alright, I did a little test on the Shaggy method vs. just standard taping. For my Beer Pong table for tailgates I put another 2 IU symbols identical to the ones on my first cornhole boards. I also painted a large triangle design for the cups. I have two IU symbols, one on each side. On one of the symbols I did the old tape method, tape and then paint. On the other I did the Shaggy method which adds a step of painting the base coat.

I did this painting over a couple of weeks which might affect the results slightly. The symbol is white paint with red background.

The results:
The Shaggy side looked very good. There were maybe 3 or 4 slight bleeds but they were small and will be easy to touch up.

The other side has several bleeds on every single side of the design which is about 20 sides. The touch up on this side will be much more work then if I had just done the initial added step of painting a base coat.

Verdict: I'll be doing the Shaggy method from now on. It works. While it wasn't perfect that may be my fault and not the fault of the method.

Thanks for the advice Shaggy. :)
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Try Auto Pinstriping!

Postby Shoots on Tue Dec 19, 2006 7:44 am

I had the same problem doing my first set of boxes. An easy solution to painting your striping is using simple automobile pinstriping. It is the same concept as decals; self adhesive vinyl. The stripes are always perfect with no bleed. Plus with vinyl striping, you have a variety of sizes (widths) and colors available.

Also, use a wider stripe over the point where two colors meet in a color change on your box for a very "clean" looking break. The striping takes the polycrilic just fine. I have used striping extensively in the boxes I have made so far and will upload some pics soon.
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Postby Joshua on Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:18 am

I'd like to see those pics, Shoots.

I understand the method when painting over one color.

Question for you guys: When a stripe will cover two colors and you want to use the Shaggy method, is your first coat AFTER the tape split between the two colors?

I ninja'd a pic from kyassassin's awesome KY boards:

frontud4.jpg
painted lines
frontud4.jpg (243.95 KiB) Viewed 959 times


In the middle he has a silver stripe that has blue on one side and white on the other. After taping that stripe off, would it be best to paint one side of the stripe blue and the other white, THEN put your coats of silver on so the bleeding occurs in the respective colors?

I hope I'm asking that right. Thanks in advance!

photo URL: http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/4201/frontud4.jpg
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Postby jason43050 on Mon May 14, 2007 4:49 am

abalk wrote:Your technique w/ contact paper for logo and masking tape for stripes.

Image

Image

Your technique w/ masking tape for all graphics.

Image

Image

Thanks Again!
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only one problem with those boards that i can see. they got the cubs on it!!! Go Indians!!!
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idiot confused...

Postby birdband01 on Wed Jul 11, 2007 7:40 pm

I may be a lil' slow but I'm confused as to the method everyone's using for painting logos on their boards. Also, does everyone sand their boards in between the 2 coats of primer and between coats paint? I want to paint my boards black w/a gold Purdue P in the middle... Exactly how would I do this? Am I going to paint the gold color on top of the primer in mainly in the general area where the P's gonna be?... Then tape over the gold that I want to stay gold? Again, I'm sure I'm making this more difficult than it really is! Thanks so much!
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